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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.